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Rowing through the Iron Gates Gorge, July 22, 2008 (Kladovo, Serbia)

Much of this week has been spent voyaging the Iron Gates Gorge, one of the most dramatic parts of the Danube River.  Sheer limestone cliffs drop 2000 ft to the river’s edge, as the Danube follows a sinuous route through the Carpathian Mountains.  Historically this was a dangerous part of the river with fast chutes, rapids, and jagged shoals.  Now it has been tamed by the Iron Gates Dam, which has raised water levels giving the river a lake-like temperament. 

The area is steeped in history and recently Europe’s oldest agricultural village (8000 years) has been discovered near the banks.  As Julie and I rowed between towering cliffs we saw plenty of evidence of the region’s active past.  A 2000-year-old tablet, inscribed by the Romans, was placed at the base of a cliff marking the beginning of a road they created through the canyon.  An archaeological dig came to the river’s banks, and hundreds of caves in the limestone were home to Europe’s first inhabitants. Castles were numerous – perched on cliff tops, or semi-submerged in waters raised by the dam.  We felt we were passing through a great outdoor museum constructed of limestone and water.

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- Colin

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